An Insider’s Guide to South East Ireland

THE HOLIDAY MAGAZINE



WEXFORD

With its picturesque River Slaney flowing peacefully through, County Wexford offers an outdoor paradise for all the family.

Cycling, Fishing, swimming, walking, or like me, if you just prefer good food and Guinness, your Irish sojourn won’t come more laid-back and carefree than Wexford.

Most visitors’ first port of entry to the south is Rosslare Harbour, which enjoys miles of beautiful strand with attractive golf links of Rosslare Club running alongside.

Before heading West to Waterford or North to Wexford, you’ll see the famous Kilrane Inn, a small roadside pub and restaurant which boasts the distinction of being the first and last pub in Ireland for those travelling to and from Britain and the Continent. It’s a friendly family-oriented pub where the pints and craic flow and you could happily stay there and forget about your ferry!

Kilmore Quay on County Wexford’s southeastern tip is worth stopping in before heading to Waterford or Wexford. It’s a picturesque place with neat white washed cottages and well-trimmed thatches ending at a harbour with sleek yachts. I’d recommend a boat trip to the uninhabited Saltee Islands, just offshore, before tasting the days catch at the Silver Fox Seafood Restaurant.

In Wexford the jewel of the annual calendar is the Wexford Opera Festival, now established over 40 years, where the town quite literally enters into the spirit (along with thousands of international visitors) at the Georgian Opera house and scores of mini venues.

The town, with its narrow Main Street, crammed with fascinating small shops, pubs and restaurants by the dozen, has a great atmosphere – you could be strolling in Chester or York.

Nobody comes to Wexford without sampling the pubs – and your spoiled for choice: traditional inns compete for your punt, from Smyths on the Quays to O’Faolain’s, The Thomas Moore Tavern and Bugler Doyle’s. Best of the bunch are The Crown Bar (the oldest pub in town, full of memorabilia) and The Sky and The Ground (at the far end of South Main Street) where I soaked up traditional Irish music into the wee small hours and an intimate restaurant Heavens Above upstairs offering delicious food (00 353 53 21273).

History buffs should seek out the ruins of Selskar Abbey, Church of the Assumption and Church of the Immaculate Conception both unusually with spires 233 feet high.

A few miles north is Ferrycarrig home of the National heritage Park, a 35 acre site that traces the regions history from the mists of time to Celtic, Viking and Norman periods.

On the south side of Wexford are two must see attractions, Yola Farmstead Folk Park and Johnstown Castle, home of the Irish Agricultural Museum. The kids will love Yola, a five acre complex of restored thatched cottages, a tiny four pew church, forge and windmill complete with rare breeds of poultry and playground, all transporting you back to 18th century village life.

Johnstown Castle is a peaceful haven, a revivalist mansion with extensive parklands, and home to a first class museum covering all aspects of rural Ireland the story of Ireland’s appalling potato famine is thought provoking in its details.

The National 1798 Visitor Centre in Enniscorthy, housed in a former Christian Brothers’ Monastery, traces the rebellion in 1798 in County Wexford, together with events as they happened in Europe, the United States, and Australia. The Revolution experience is a dramatic audio-visual display using a vast curved screen to simulate the battle of Vinegar Hill – a highlight of the tour.


DUNGARVAN

Dungarvan to the far west, offers a gentle, picturesque base for some challenging walking, fishing, and golf – there’s a real fishing community here.


Situated on the Dungarvan Harbour where the River Colligan broadens and enters the sea, it’s a busy market town that can trace its origins back to the Stone Age. I’d recommend spending a morning in the harbour area with its pubs and inviting eateries strewn up little alleyways.

Dungarvan Castle, now a ruin dates back to 1185 and has a circular keep surrounded by fortified walls. History buffs should check out the museum in the Old Market House and Flanagan’s, now an auctioneers and fine restaurant.

This area is also a favourite with the deep-sea and in-shire angling fraternity – fully equipped boats are available. Cod, coalfish, conger, Pollock are among the catch. Salmon, trout and coarse fishing are available nearby.

Like Wexford, there are numerous sandy beaches – the best if forces to choose are Clonea Strand, Ballyquin Strand and Ardmore, and if its not so hot you can enjoy horse riding, golf (at three local courses) tennis, and board sailing and yachting.


WATERFORD

Famous the world over for its hand-crafted crystal – hence the name “ The Crystal County” – County Waterford offers the choice between a cosmopolitan city, charming seaside resort and a mountainous hinterland.

My favourite time to visit is at night, when the calm sultry night-lights of the bars and hostelries on the quays light up the River Suir. To appreciate the waterfront the Galley Cruising Restaurant offers diners a culinary trip along the river up to a country town of New Ross 15 miles north. It’s the best introduction to the city and a good way to loosen tongues and meet fellow visitors.

Jordans pub and T & H Doolan’s are the oldest pubs, and there is good specialist shopping too – including Kellys at The Quay where you can choose from Waterford Crystal to Belleek China and Irish Linen goods. The City Square Mall also has dozens of high street names.

Behind the Quays running parallel is O’Connell Street and Georges Street, with more pubs running up some step inclines to the hill. The Waterford heritage Centre has fascinating exhibits of Viking and Norman artefacts and visitors can enjoy tours of the City Walls.

Waterford’s history is inextricably entwined with crystal. Marvel at the pieces in the Waterford Crystal Gallery before taking a Factory Tour where you can watch the Glass Blowing and Cutting Masters work their magic.

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